Please read and familiarize yourself with all instructions prior to starting

This is my first attempt at writing detailed assembly instructions. When I am finished, if you find that something is missing or you need clarification on any of the steps, please call or email. I have been assembling these for a while so something that may seem easy to me may cause an untold anxiety attack for another!

This will be the first stage, installation of the rear spokes and rear spoke nipples. The second stage will be the installation of the front spokes and nipples. The third and final stage will be the wheel weight and bushing installation.

1 This is what we are aiming for after everything is said and done. A completely laced, miniature version of a Mercedes wire wheel circa 1930's complete with wheel weights and a tire valve.

2 If you get a chance, take the assembly process out to the lake! I have to have something to do mechanically, even when I'm taking time off. This picture shows two sets of wheels going together.

3 OK, Let's begin. I am suggest you start with assembling one wheel to begin with. That way, you can learn the process and find out what to watch out for on the other 3 - 5 wheels. The most important thing to remember is not to scratch the chrome, and pay attention to where your pliers are in relation to the hub and rim at all times. Start by polishing a hub and rim. Use only a lint free cloth. I am using an eyeglass polishing cloth in this pic.  
4 Locate the timing mark on your hub, as shown in the picture.  
5 Locate the timing mark on the rim, as shown in the picture.  

6

 If you can, obtain a couple of 12" lengths of stainless steel wire (piano wire) in anywhere from .019 to .022 inches (0.022 is preferred) from your local hobby store. If you don't have access than use some 0.022 material from the kit.

Cut two 4" lengths from the material you have chosen to use. The pieces will be used to center the hub in the rim. Insert the first piece through the rim and hub as shown in the pic, making sure that the timing marks line up as shown.

  
7 This is what it should look like. The wire should be perfectly centered in the rim and hub. It may be slightly difficult to pass the wire through the rim, this is due to the hole being drilled on a slight angle.  
8 Install the second wire 90 degrees opposite the first wire. You should have 10 empty spoke holes in each of the 4 quadrants. (Count them to make sure!)  
9 Here we go with the rear spokes, there are a total of 44 in each wheel. Start by cutting 16 spokes from the 0.019 stainless spoke material. The spokes should be about .880 to .940 inches (7/8 to 15/16 inches) in length. In metric that equals 22.5 mm to 24 mm. The length is not that critical, you do not have to try to get each spoke perfect, but on the other hand don't go overboard with the length either. You will need decent cutters to cut the stainless steel spokes.
10 Next we have to bend the spoke ends. Bend these using the straight edge of your pliers. I use very cheap flat jaw pliers purchased from my local auto store.

Bend the end as shown approx .092"  (3/32 inches) or 2.34 mm. Again, do not try for perfection.

 
11

Line up the ends of the cut wires by pushing them against your plier or the table.

(Note: You can bend the wires one at a time or in batches).

 
12 Put the wire set into your pliers to the requires distance (I know "easier said than done" but try it, after you've done the first batch and installed them you'll understand the tolerances better).  
13 Bend the wires to form the spoke ends. You will bend the wire 90 degrees, and it will spring back a bit. This is good and is desirable.  
14 This end view shows how mine usually come out.  
15 The fun begins! The wheel is split into 4 quadrants, as viewed from the back of the rim/hub assembly. There are 44 holes in the rim and the hub. Hole # 1 in the rim and hub, is located beside the timing marks, in quadrant # 1  as shown. Use this location as your starting reference point. The timing marks are actually located in hole # 44 in each rim and hub.
16 Using small needle nose pliers, go ahead and install your first spoke into quadrant 1, as shown in the pic. Insert the spoke into the 5th hole in the hub and into the 6th hole of the rim.  
17 Now insert  a crossover spoke into the 6th hole of the hub and into the 5th hole of the rim.  
18 The ends of the spokes need to face or cross each other in the hub when seated. Turn the spoke as you are installing it to make sure this happens.  
19 This jpeg shows the technique needed to install the spokes. It can take several "pulls" to install each spoke. Make sure you don't slip and put a major scratch in the chrome.

You need a small pair of needle nose pliers with decent serrations on the jaws. I buy cheap pliers (CAD$ 1.99) available at my local auto store, and choose the better aligned ones.

 
20 Just pull on each spoke and ease up as you get close to the rim.  
21 Insert another spoke into quadrant 3,  hub hole 27 and rim hole 28, as shown.  
22 Insert another crossover spoke into hub hole 28 and rim hole 27, as shown.  
23 Insert another spoke into quadrant 4,  hub hole 37 and rim hole 38, as shown.  
24 Insert a crossover spoke into hub hole 38 and rim hole 37, as shown.  
25 Insert another spoke into quadrant 2,  hub hole 17 and rim hole 18, as shown.  
26 Insert a crossover spoke into hub hole 18 and rim hole 17, as shown.  
27

Optional step

The spoke ends are sharp and dangerous. You may want to trim the spokes flush with the edge of the rim to cut down on finger punctures.

  
28 Insert another spoke into quadrant 4,  hub hole 35 and rim hole 36, as shown.  
29 Insert a crossover spoke into hub hole 36 and rim hole 35, as shown.  
30 Insert another spoke into quadrant 2,  hub hole 15 and rim hole 16, as shown.  
31 Insert a crossover spoke into hub hole 16 and rim hole 15, as shown.  
32 Continue installing spokes following the sequence in this chart. Make sure the spoke ends cross over each other as shown in this jpeg.

Chart
33 When you have reached this part take a few minutes and recheck your work. The wheel will be centering itself by now and is starting to feeling nice and solid.  
34 You're getting close. Four more sets to install to complete this part.
35 You made it. The wheel has become very solid at this point, and will become even more rigid once the spoke nipples are installed.  
36 Clean up the rim and hub with a lint free cloth in preparation for the front spoke install.  
37 Break out a beer! a rye!, or whatever! and take a break while you savor your handiwork. Mount a tire and get an idea of how the assembled product is going to look when finished.  
38 Time to get going again. Hopefully we have only had one refreshment.

Grab a spoke nipple and install onto a spoke end.

 

  
39 You may have to work it on to the end. If it is difficult to get on turn it around and try it.  
40 I usually install 10 at a time.  
41 Take one of the installation tubes included in your kit and slide it over a spoke.

A note of caution here, the rear spoke holes are drilled on an angle. The angle is to the back of the rim. Do not try to force the insertion tool at 90 degrees to the rim. Follow the path of the nipple carefully.

  
42 With the pliers holding the tool, push down and slightly wiggle the spoke nipple and you will feel it as it centers itself in the drilled hole in the rim. It does not have to go all the way and protrude on the other side.  
43 With the tool sitting on the nipple, and the nipple started in the spoke hole, lightly tap the nipple into position and let it protrude about 1/16 of an inch at the inside diameter of the rim. If you go too far, just use your pliers to push it back up from the inside of the rim.  
44 Install all 44 spoke nipples and even them out.  
45 Polish the rim, take a break, (another refreshment perhaps?!!) and prepare to install the front spokes.  
  Moving on at a frantic pace! (unless those refreshments are taking their toll...) Page 2